Prague Journal

Thursday, October 28, 2004.

Thursday, October 28, 2004.
Today is Independence Day, the day commemorating the founding of the independent Czechoslovak state in 1918 after the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian empire. As you well know, “during the course of World War I, the Czechs became unified in their opposition to Austrian rule. Most especially, Austria-Hungary's alignment with Germany and the restriction of democratic rights in the Czech lands led to growing opposition to the monarchy here. An organized resistance began to develop, both at home and abroad.
The Czech university professor, philosopher and politician, Tomas Garrigue Masaryk (who was later to become Czechoslovakia's first president) had been an advocate of more independence for the Czech lands long before the war had even started. In December of 1914, he went abroad, where he continued to fight for Czechoslovak independence throughout the war. He worked closely with Czech lawyer Edvard Benes and Slovak astronomer Milan Rastislav Stefanik, who were also in exile in the United States throughout the conflict. It was in the United States at this time that Masaryk met his wife, American Charlotte Garrigue.” http://archiv.radio.cz/history/history09.html
There is a street just off Můstek (at the end of Wenceslas Square) named října 28, which literally means “the 28th of October”. This day is still celebrated more than the 17th of November (there is a street named 17 November also), which is the day that more than 15,000 people, mostly students, took part in the biggest show of public dissent for two decades, which we now refer to as the “Velvet Revolution.” Eventually the Communist party leadership resigned and, in December 1989, was replaced by a government composed mainly of non-communists. In 1990 the country split peacefully into two nations, the Czech Republic and the Slovak Federation. But that is another story.
In America, Independence Day is celebrated with great fanfare. Here, most people take advantage of the long weekend to retire to their cottages. There are few events in town this weekend. Most small shops and many restaurants are closed. Street life downtown looks like an ordinary day – no decorations, no parades.
The Municipal House “Obecni Dům”, however, was ready for visitors, with a brass ensemble on the balcony and an open-house tour of the building. The Municipal House is Prague’s most prominent Art Nouveau building situated on the site of the former Royal Court Palace. Each room is decorated from floor to ceiling, most with art nouveau gold trimmings, stained glass, sculpture, ceiling murals and period furniture. Historically the building had been used as a seminary and a military college, but was demolished and replaced by the present building, which serves as a cultural center, exhibition halls, concert venue, and café and restaurant in the lobby. On the 28th of October 1918 the Municipal House was the scene of the proclamation of the independent state of Czechoslovakia, hence its observance of this occasion by welcoming visitors today.
After a brief tour, Rick and I had a lovely evening with our good friends Charlotte and Bruce. Charlotte is one of the first people I met here in 1997 and one of my dearest friends. We share stories from growing up in Chicago, although her stories are a bit different than mine, since her family is Czech and she learned the language at the knee of her grandmother. She visited Czechoslovakia and other soviet-block countries in the 1970s and 1980s. She and Bruce were married in Old Town here in Prague two years ago. Both Charlotte and Bruce appreciate good food and good wine, so we had wine, hors d’œuvres and dessert at their house and dinner at a lovely restaurant not too far from their flat. Of course, the best part of the evening was the conversation, despite the discussions concerning US politics and the upcoming election.

posted by JWinn @ 9:35 PM