Prague Journal

Friday, March 11, 2005

We picked up a rental car at 9am and headed to southern Bohemia for a weekend in Červena with Ales and Jitka. On the way, we stopped at Zvikov, to show Matt the castle. All castles are closed until the first of April, but the structures and grounds are interesting enough to warrant the trip, especially since it is not a substantial detour from the main road to Červena.
Zvikov is one of the most important early gothic castles in the Czech Republic. Founded in the 13th century, it was originally the seat of the kings of the Přemislid Dynasty. The castle structure is distinctive for its towers: the cylindrical Hláska tower, the Hlíza Tower, the Red Tower and the Iron Tower. The defensive Hláska tower, at the entrance to the castle grounds, dates from the first half of the 15th century. In the 16th century, the chateau was reconstructed in renaissance style. At the beginning of the 30-year war the chateaux was besieged and plundered. Since the 17th century this castle served to accommodate an army and a granary, but was devastated by a fire in 1751. In the first half of the 19th century Zvikov was devastated again, and gradually reconstructed by the Schwarzenberks beginning in 1840. Reconstruction was completed in 1978, and the castle is now open for visitors, but only from April through September.
Zvikov is not so far out of our way that our detour delayed lunch in Červena, even though we took the scenic route through the forest preserve to see the family of boars who were dutifully waiting for us. (They materialized just as Rick teased Ales about his inability to produce them.) Jitka greeted us when we arrived at Červena, first with dessert (!), then beer, and then a luscious lunch. Matt, Rick, and Ales went for a short walk around Červena (Jetĕtice), which is covered with a deep blanket of snow.
The afternoon was spent lazily, alternatively talking, reading, and resting, except for Jitka who was busy in the kitchen most of the time. I had forgotten about Shabbat, but Jitka, bless her heart, had not. She had candles ready for us before dinner, which was another lavish meal, followed by another dessert. After dinner, we all sat down in front of the VCR and watched two Agatha Christie stories, The Cornish Mystery and The Disappearance of Mr. Davenheim, about Hercule Poirot, “the eccentric and extremely intelligent detective,” and his trusty sidekick Captain Hastings.

posted by JWinn @ 8:14 PM